Tuesday, January 31, 2006

Takeout

Pablo and Jan have been such great hosts since I arrived. I am paying room and board, but still feel like they are giving me so much by allowing me to stay in their home. They have had a ministry of hospitality for most of their marriage. Missionaries traveling through, work groups, pastors in town for a meeting and lots of extended family members have been welcomed with a meal and a bed with no questions asked.

Jan , her mother, Flo and Amalia had been working hard all day moving Amalia and her husband Albert into their new quarters and I knew the last thing Jan wanted to do was whip up supper for 8, so I suggest we go out to the local Tacorilla for supper, my treat. Jan gratefully accepted the offer, but Amelia was struggling with Pricilla, so she and Albert decided to stay home. We promised to bring them a takeout order of tacos.

We decided to walk to the restaurant that groups had visited during the summer. It is owned by a lady from their church, so they trust that she uses sanitary preparation methods, which one cannot assume here. There is no health department that comes around and grade restaurants here. We got there to find it closed, so we walked to one run by Pablo’s cousin. It is small, with plastic tables and an open grill where the cook prepares the meats that go on these tacos.

The tacos here are more like small open face soft tacos, not the hard shell variety we have back home. The tortillas are small, about 4 inches in diameter. They are served with various kinds of meat, beef, goat, pork, and chicken are the standards.

We ordered a couple of rounds of tacos and really enjoyed meal. We then placed our order to go which included a drink. They brought the meal in a plastic grocery bag and then came the big surprise. Since the drinks they serve come in bottles that require a deposit, the waitress poured the Fresca into a sandwich baggie, put a straw inside and put a twist tie around the top. I about fell out of my chair when she handed that baggie to Flo. We laughed all the way home because the drink had been refrigerated and Flo’s hand got really cold holding that baggie.

Many of the things we take for granted in the states just are not available here or they choose not to use them. But what the heck, it was a new experience, a great meal and I fed 8 people all they could eat for 181 pesos, about $18.

Monday, January 30, 2006

Homesick

I have been away from my beloved wife and family now for 25 days, the longest time I’ve ever been apart from them. I miss them terribly. Skype helps because we can see and talk to each other, but we are a hugging bunch and there is no way to transmit a hug across the internet.

In a moment of weakness last night I almost booked a ticket for a flight home for next week, but it cost $600, which is money we don’t have. I knew in theory that this time apart would be difficult, but knowing in ones mind and experiencing it are quite different.

Jan and Pablo have been great. They have opened their house up to me and I have all the comforts I need, but my family is still 2,600 miles away. Please pray for us that we will have the strength to make it during our separation.

I have heard that the first 3 days of a fast are the most difficult, or that a marathon runner hits “the wall” at some point during the race. Maybe that is what I have hit…the “I miss you” wall. We will push through this wall too by focusing on the work and praying for strength.

January 29, 2006

I awoke on Sunday morning in Tzaljala to a bright and sunny, but chilly day. I was glad I packed my sweatshirt. The night before I had worked on a sermon to deliver at the morning service. I used the scripture that my friend and mentor in missions sent me before I left Winston. Brad Spencer and his wife Tammy were the leaders of my first mission trip. We went to Villahermosa to work on the Presbyterian seminary there. We had a spectacular experience that week and I have never been the same since.

I was really impressed with Brad and Tammy’s leadership style, and being a firm believer in the CASE method…Copy And Steal Everything, I modeled my group leading style on theirs. They became great friends and I love traveling with them on mission trips.

The scripture that Brad sent me is his favorite “mission” scripture.
It is Ephesians 2:8-10
NIV 8 For it is by grace you have been saved, through faith—and this not from yourselves, it is the gift of God— 9 not by works, so that no one can boast. 10 For we are God's workmanship, created in Christ Jesus to do good works, which God prepared in advance for us to do.


This scripture really resonated with me when I read it because I really do feel like God has prepared me for this project and my role here is to actualize what He has already planned.

I used this scripture to build my sermon and I repeated the challenge from JK Yohannon to the much larger group of members attending the Sunday morning service. I asked them to search their hearts and to pray to discern God’s calling for their life, because it is already prepared for them if they will only open themselves up to receiving their instructions.

The Mariachi band played several songs during the service, which was a new experience for me. After worship we were served another great meal, then packed up and headed back to Ocosingo. The drive home was not as difficult because we took a different route that was less muddy, but did not offer the great views we saw on the trip up the mountain.

The people of Tzaljala welcomed, provided for me and offered prayers for my family and work here. They voted to accept another group from the US and offered to send their church members to nearby churches to help if a work group was coming there. Once again I have been blessed and cared for by the people of Chiapas.

The Challange

Pastor J.K Yohannon in his book "Relvolution in Missions" has a great challange for us. He says to ask yourself this question “What is the single most important thing I am going to do with the rest of my life?” It cannot be a worldly or material thing and it must bring glory to God.

If you will think about that question and honestly pray for God to reveal His calling for your life, you may find yourself moving in a totally new direction.

Hospitality

I am the only white face within miles as I sit in the courtyard of a Presbyterian church in the highlands of Chiapas. Church members are starting to arrive for the 3 pm service and every man that arrives makes a point of coming over to me to shake my hand and says "me Hermano,” my brother in English. Later at the 4 meals I was served at the church, I was given the best plate in their collection. Everyone else ate from plain white enamel plates, but the one they gave me had a beautiful floral design.

I have always been impressed with the hospitality the people here extend to our work groups when we visit. But I have often wondered if it was because were an oddity, a large group of white Americans visiting their remote village. I am beginning to think that they just take the concept of Christian love more seriously than we do.

I can’t help but wonder what the reception would be for one Hispanic or African American if they visited an American Presbyterian Church. While I am sure that they would be greeted cordially, I doubt if every Deacon and Elder would go out of their way to welcome the visitor, much less address them as my brother. But that is in fact what we all are as believers in the risen Christ. We are brothers and sisters in Christ and we should not be embarrassed by addressing each other as such. God’s grace is something we often take for granted, when we should treat it as a precious gift that we display to all we know.

January 28, 2006

I left Ocosingo today without Pablo. Pastor Gaspar, Amalia, Pricillia (her 6 month old daughter) and Amalia’s cousin Flo and I are traveling to Tzaljala to conduct a mission conference. We are going to one of Gaspar’s nine churches, and it is the church that hosted the Salem Presbytery Medical trip last summer. I will be the lead speaker at the conference as I talk about World Missions.

I have heard great stories about this church from Ginny and Holly who participated on the medical trip last summer. One of the best was about the road up the mountain to the village. It is at an elevation of 1750 meters,(about 5,700 feet) so we will have some climbing to do. I am glad to have a 4x4 for the trip.

We travel 30 miles to Yajalon and turn up the dirt road and begin the climb. It has rained for several days, but today it is clear. The road is narrow and muddy, but we have no trouble and thankfully meet no traffic coming down the mountain. As we switch back and forth up the mountain we see the city below growing more distant and the wispy clouds blowing across the summit getting closer. We go through several holes filled with water that would swamp a normal car, but we cruise right through them.

We crest the mountain and begin descending along a very rocky portion of road. I am reminded of what the Romans were able to accomplish with their cobblestone roads, but they used slave labor to construct them. We come around a corner and see a herd of cows blocking the road ahead! We just waiting until the tenders could drive them around the vehicle. We arrived in Tzaljala at 11:30 am, we have driven 45 miles from Ocosingo and it has taken 2 hours.

We got settled into our quarters and were taken to the kitchen for breakfast. The kitchen is a large building with a mud floor and two large rooms. Three cook fires were burning in the left corner of the main room. One had a huge wash tub filled will a black frothing liquid. I asked what it was and was told coffee. There must have been 50 gallons of coffee boiling in that tub. I was told it would be enough for today’s meeting and tomorrow’s church service.

In a room off the main kitchen there was a group of ladies working and the noise of an electric motor. I walked in and found the tortilla making shop. Glenn and I had seen a new corn grinder in a store close to the house in Ocosingo, and here was one in action. One woman put boiled corn kernals into a hopper on the top of the grinder. The corn vibrated into a shoot that directed it to an auger that ground the wet corn into a paste that fell into a receptacle at the bottom of the grinder. The paste was taken to a table and kneeded, then put onto a large table where 5-6 women used presses to form thin patties. These were taken to a nearby fire and browned on round flat griddles. The corn tortilla is a stable in the diet of all rural Mexicans.

After breakfast we waited for the 3 pm mission conference to begin. I started writing in my notebook and was soon surrounded by a group of men and boys watching me write. Soon I had a crowd staring at me as I wrote and I know what it feels like to be the only white man in town. The stares, comments and laughter were directed at me, but I didn’t know what they were saying.

I wrote the word “coffee” and someone recognized it and we began a familiar pattern of teaching each other our respective language. Again, I am hearing more Tzeltal than Spanish, but we teach other all three languages. It is fun, but for an introvert like me it is very tiring. Ginny is the extrovert in the family and she would thrive on being in a group like this.

The mission conference was a success. I spoke for a little more than an hour about World Missions with Amalia translating into Spanish. I challenged them at the end by asking a question I had read in JK Yohannon’s book. He says to ask yourself this question “What is the single most important thing I am going to do with the rest of my life?” It cannot be a worldly or material thing and it must bring glory to God.

After the conference pastor Gaspar asked me to preach during the worship service the next morning. I said ok, not having anything prepared. We went to supper and were served a great meal of chicken stew, and then were treated to a 2 hour performance by a 7 piece Mariachi band composed of members of the congregation. They played until 9:30 pm while standing in front of the entrance to my quarters. I did a lot of thinking about the sermon I would write, but could not begin reading the bible or preparing until after they finished.

January 24, 2006

Pablo asked me today to participate in a Mission Conference at the Presbyterian Church in Tzaljala on Saturday. He asked me to prepare a course on World Missions.

I am not a pastor, I’ve never really studied missions, but I have certainly experienced the transforming effect of mission. So I spent several hours reading and preparing for the course. I learned a lot and was really challenged by J. K. Yohannon, the Indian leader of Gospel for Asia. His book Revolution in Missions, explains why he believes that the old model of missions where white western missionaries go to foreign countries, no longer works. He is a proponent of using native missionaries that know the language and culture and can operate at a fraction of the expense of western missionaries to preach the gospel to their own people.

He also claims that western mission organizations have lost their focus on preaching the gospel and instead are focusing on social ministries that build schools, clinics, hospitals and houses for the people. He contends that while social ministries may benefit the body, if they are not offering the gospel, then they are not serving the soul of the people. Gospel for Asia’s focus is on the 2+ billion un-reached people in India, China etc. that have not heard the message of Jesus.

As a white, western Christian that has moved to a foreign country to build a medical clinic, I was challenged by this perspective and opinion. I know Hebron Foundation works with un-reached (or recently reached) people because I participated on a trip to build the first church in the rain forest for the Lacandon Indians, and they support a native missionary to that people group. But the clinic we will build will serve mostly reached people, those that have heard and accepted the Gospel. We also promote cross-cultural missions between Spanish, Mayan and American churches, and I know first hand the spiritual renewal that can occur from those experiences.

Pablo and I talked about the different perspectives and we agreed that what we are doing is validated and important. We will reach out to those that have not heard the message of Jesus Christ, while at the same time lovingly serve his people that have a real need for access to medical care.

I also ran across a quote from another missionary that really challenges Presbyterians.

“Only when we are emptied of our own self sufficiency can God use us. When a church or a mission board spends more time in consultation, planning and committee meetings than in prayer, it is a clear indication the members have lost touch with the supernatural and have ended up “serving the house of God and forgot the Lord Himself.”

Tuesday, January 24, 2006

Skype

If you don’t know about Skype, you are missing one of the great technological advances since the wheel was developed. Well, maybe not that important, but it is really cool.

Skype is a free voice over internet telephone system that allows anyone with the software to talk with other skype users via the internet at no cost. It has a video option, chat and conference calling option and other neat features. I video call Ginny and my girls daily and it is free! This makes the 5 month separation we are experiencing almost bearable.

Go to www.skype.com and download and install the free software.
My user name is millsnmex.

Look me up and give me a call.

January 22, 2006

Awoke bright and early Sunday to a beautiful clear morning. We had an interesting breakfast. (first breakfast it turns out. I am beginning to feel like a Hobbit eating first and second breakfasts) We had sweet coffee served with animal crackers and some kind of greens that were to be put into tortilla and eaten. Well I had one of those so not to offend, then gladly shared the plate with the rest of the table.

Church started at 8 am and again it took 25 minutes for folks to arrive. Pablo preached another rousing sermon in Tzeltal, and then the pastor called upon the president of the lady’s society. She began a recruiting drive by talking to every lady in attendance and after 20 minutes had recruited 31 members. They then had election of officers with the pastor supervising. All the while I was thinking that this should be done at their first meeting and not during a church service, but that is just the cultural difference.

After church we had a second breakfast or maybe it was an early lunch. Pablo was asked to meet again with the elders and the new officers of the revived Lady’s Society. I decided to teach a new group of kids how to juggle. That was a big hit and I even got some ladies to try. I may have found a good ice breaker with kids and young people.

January 21, 2006

We visited the Lacandon Presbytery meeting in Damascus today. We left Ocosingo at 6:15 am and drove east toward Palenque, then south west to Damascus. It took about 3 hours but it was a beautiful morning and we did not have any traffic problems. We arrived and immediately began a two hour meeting with the Presbytery leaders.

Unlike in the US where each Presbytery has a paid staff, all the leaders of Presbytery’s in this part of Mexico are volunteers. They must make their own travel arrangements to attend meetings etc. There are no funds available to reimburse for travel or provide a stipend for these volunteer leaders.

We discussed several projects that would involve churches in the Lacandon Presbytery and groups from the US. We were laying the ground work for groups this summer and next. The session of each church must agree to host a group and allow Hebron Foundation to come spend a weekend and conduct a mission conference. The conference teaches the church members the concept of missions and they must agree to begin outreach to neighboring communities.

Our meeting was interrupted by an invitation for breakfast and Pablo and I were served eggs, tortillas, beans and havenero peppers. It is the custom here to serve your guest a meal when they arrive, even if the next meal is scheduled shortly thereafter. On several occasions we have eaten twice in a 2 hour period. The other custom is to serve the guest large portions and it is insulting not to clean your plate. So when lunch was served shortly after we ate breakfast, it was a real challenge to finish the carne asada. It was very good, I just ran out of room.

After lunch I was introduced to the Pastor’s of the Presbytery and we talked about the planned clinic and working together to meet the needs of the people. I hear more Tzeltal than Spanish in the villages, so I am beginning to pick up some words.

After the meeting, Pablo was cornered by several people that wanted to discuss various things, so he went off and I was left to mingle and try to communicate with folks from the village. A lady gave me three oranges and they immediately became juggling balls which drew a crowd of children. I offered to teach them how to juggle and that is how I spent the next hour and half. As we played and laughed, they taught me Tzeltal and I taught them English.

We drove back toward Ocosingo to Vincente Guierra where Pablo was the main event for an anniversary celebration for the ladies society at the Presbyterian Church. The service was to start at 6 pm and we arrived about 5 pm. They served us a quick supper of eggs and ham and we went into the church.

Time is a relative concept in the villages. The service was to begin at 6 pm, and an announcement was made using the church pa system alerting the village that Pastor Pablo was here to speak. I was the only person in the sanctuary, but slowly folks started arriving and by 6:30 there was a respectable crowd.

Women sat on the right side of the church and men on the right. It was a traditional village church service with lots of women and children and a few men. Church services here are all inclusive….children, infants, dogs and the occasional pig, so the general level of noise in the sanctuary is much higher. I was sitting beside one of the large open windows so I could catch a breeze and slowly watch the stars appear in the clear Chiapas sky.

Pablo preached a good sermon (I guess, it was in Tzeltal) and by 8 o’clock we were having a second supper of pollo asada. Then the elders met with Pablo to discuss the Sunday service that would celebrate the Lady’s Society. I learned that while the service was to celebrate the anniversary of the creation of the Lady’s Society, it (the society) was not really functioning well. It had lost most of its members because they were not receiving the support of the elders. Pablo spent a bit of time “training” the elders on supporting the ladies.

The village and church culture here is definitely patriarchal and hierarchal. Only men serve as pastors, deacons or elders. The pastor is in complete control of the church. The deacons serve the elders at meals and all wait for the pastor to start eating or finish eating before they begin or excuse themselves from the table. So the concept of “supporting” the ladies was a difficult one for the elders to grasp. At one point I suggest they ask the ladies what they wanted to do about an issue, and I got blank stares from the men around the table.

Pablo got some acquiescence when he related a story of a church whose ladies refused to cook for the elders because they were not being supported. Not being fed seemed to register with the men and they agreed to appoint two new elders to “supervise” the lady’s society.

We slept in hammock in the church and I was thankful that I remembered my earplugs. At 1 am there was a ferocious dog fight just outside the church and then the roosters began a contest to see which could crow the loudest. I got up once during the night then struggled to get back into my hammock. I’m a bit out of practice with these and it is definitely an acquired talent to get in and out without looking the fool.

Friday, January 20, 2006

January 17, 2006

1/17/06
Today we met with the leaders of the small mission church that hosted Salem Presbytery travelers during the summer of 2005. Salem groups conducted VBS with the children from this mission while working on a project at the bible school.

In the Mexican Presbyterian Church, there are three designations that describe the size of a body of believers. A “Mission” is the smallest. It may have 1 to 20 members and is supervised by an elder from a larger church. The next designation is a “Congregation.” It may have up to 50 members and then it can register to become a “church.”

The mission is located on a steep side street in Ocosingo. It is has been built by the congregation over several years. Like most buildings here, the exterior is made from cement block and covered with stucco. The floor is still dirt and the roof is only partly finished. When we were conducting VBS last summer, one of the predictable afternoon summer storms hit and the rain was blown inside the church because the roof is not connected to the walls, producing a puddle in the center of the sanctuary.

We were contacted by a member of a small Presbyterian Church just north of Greensboro, NC who traveled with Salem last summer about an idea to help the mission church. This NC church is conducting a campaign to repair/replace the roof of its church. The idea is to raise additional funds to help the mission complete its roof too.

Hebron Foundation employs an architect because they are always called upon by churches to help with construction projects. Bany Hernandez is familiar to most travelers because she has been an intern with the foundation while studying architecture. She has now graduated and will work with the clinic construction over the next 2 years. Pablo, Bany, Julian (bible school employee) and I went to the mission to get the measurement for the roof. We were joined by the mission elder and a representative from the ladies society.

The building is an odd shape because it is perched on a steep hill and it has been build in the method used by so many people and churches here…build when you have the money. I took the opportunity to take lots of pictures so I could “tell the story” for the church back in NC. As we were wrapping up, the lady’s society representative began bringing out food, because whenever two or more Presbyterians gather….you must eat. We had pollo asdada (grilled chicken), black beans, tortillas, chiles and Coke.

I got back to the bible school and created a power point presentation to send the church. It is amazing how the reach of a small NC church can be extended by cross cultural missions. I chose Isaiah 64:8 for the scripture reference for the presentation:
“Yet, O Lord, you are our father; we are the clay, and you are the potter; we are all the work of your hand.”

Tuesday, January 17, 2006

January 16, 2006

Monday morning, it’s cool in Ocosingo as we head to the bible school. Pablo has been away for almost two weeks and there is a line of people waiting to talk with him when we arrive. Our agenda is to match our calendars to make sure we do not have overlapping workgroups this summer or commitments that require Pablo to be two places at once.

My dual role as clinic construction and work group coordinator will require that we set up new systems for communication and accountability for Hebron Foundation. We reviewed each work group that has expressed an interest in coming during the summer of 2006 and I made notes for specific questions to ask each. We then discussed the four churches that have approached the foundation about hosting work groups. We agreed that unless more groups commit for 2006, that these new churches must wait until 2007 to host a group.

Pablo was in and out all day as more people arrived to talk with him. One meeting was special for me though. Two elders from the church in Busilja came to discuss adding a roof to the church a work group from Salem Presbytery assisted with in 2004. Ginny and I were on that trip and have very found memories of the hospitality of the village and people there. I remember pouring lots of concrete for the floor of the church and working and worshipping with the members of the congregation there. I recognized both gentlemen from our stay and it was a real pleasure to reconnect with them.

One story from that trip to Busilja captures the reason why so many people that come to Chiapas once, return again and again. The task for the week was to prepare the site for the church floor by filling in the low areas with rock and dirt and then mixing and pouring concrete for the slab.

The worksite was in the heart of the village of Busilja, but we needed rock from a jungle quarry ½ mile away. So we would make trips back and forth with the van and truck loading rocks and hauling them back to the worksite. It was hot and dirty work. On one of those trips, I looked back toward the site and saw one of our team, David Meacham from Statesville leading a band of old women and little children to the quarry. David is a remarkable man that but he has a quite demeanor. He was holding the hand of maybe the oldest lady in the village and had 25 children following behind, like a pied piper in the jungle. The group came to the quarry, filled their aprons, pants pockets, or just picked up a rock or two and headed back to the worksite.

In this way, every member of the community, no matter their age, participated in the construction of their church. By offering to take the time to connect with the ladies and children, many of whom did not speak Spanish, but their native Tzeltal, David humbled us all and taught us the importance of community. He reminded us that it is the people, not the project that is the most important.

January 15, 2006

Glenn returned to the states today after 10 days of adventure and 2600 miles in a car. I was very glad to have his company along the way, but his vision and imagination for what might be was the reason I invited him to come along.

Glenn is a unique guy. He is involved in many different business and charitable endeavors. He was my mentor at the NCAFC because he had successfully managed a large free clinic for many years and was involved in starting both the NCAFC and the National Association of Free Clinics. He now reps for a free clinic patient management software company and sells specialty advertising at www.outoftheboxTs.com. He has also been involved with missions in Peru and recently in La. He created a new nonprofit called the starfish fund to raise money for our mission, so I knew that if he was exposed to the people of Chiapas, the work of Pablo and the Hebron Foundation and the tremendous need here that he would become passionate about this project and add it to his list of projects.

Well I was right! He is totally committed now and plans to bring a group of church and free clinic folks down to work on the clinic in July. We spent much of the week planning the things the group will do, taking hundreds of pictures and discussing strategies for “telling the story” to supporters back home. We still have to raise funds for the clinic.

The take away for you the reader is that if you come to Chiapas, you will be changed! As my good friend and fellow mission traveler David Bradley says “Come have the hardest vacation you will every love!”

I left Glenn at the airport and headed back to Chiapas to pick up Pablo at the Presbytery meeting (they last 3 days down here.) Along the way it began to sink in that I was now all along in a foreign country, albeit with people I love and trust. I know that I am where God wants me to be and with His help, I can serve the people of Chiapas by showing His love through our works and words. But many challenges lay ahead….Five months without my family and learning a new language to name just two.

We enjoyed another village meal then loaded up one pastor for the drive to Ocosingo. Along the way we passed another pastor at a major intersection waiting for a taxi or bus. We pulled over and offered him a ride, not knowing that he was with his wife and son. Well that was ok, we had room, but then the big surprise. The pastor’s wife had a live turkey with her! She put the turkey in a black plastic bag with just its long neck sticking out and they all three climbed into the backseat already occupied by one pastor.

I was laughing the whole time and wishing Glenn was with me to take a picture of that turkey in a bag because who will believe it otherwise. That turkey never made a sound for the 45 kms that we shared a vehicle. Maybe the pastor’s wife had a death grip on it, but it was quite as mouse.

Janaury 14, 2006

We toured the ruins at Palenque on Saturday morning. Thankfully it was nice and cool as the ruins require climbing steep steps as you climb the pyramids constructed by the ancient Mayans or walk the jungle trails exploring un-recovered mounds that hide mysteries from 2000 years ago. Glenn was impressed by the site and our guide Raul was very knowledgeable about the site and history of the Mayan people.

We left Palenque Saturday afternoon for the 2 hour drive to Villahermosa. We had been without Pablo for our trip to San Cristobal and Palenque. We struggled to get our questions asked and to understand the answers in Spanish, yet we found it quit fun to communicate. Now I was going to make the drive to the big city without a guide and try to find the Hebron House. I felt pretty confident given the many trips I had made, but I’d always been a passenger in a vehicle. We also were required to leave Chiapas and enter the state of Tobasco, which meant crossing two military checkpoints.

The Mexican government is very diligent in policing its border with Guatemala and frequently stops buses and trucks leaving Chiapas which borders Guatemala forcing folks to get out of vehicles while they are searched. Fortunately, this day we did not look like smugglers, but normal gringo tourists and we were waved through the two checkpoints without incident. Buoyed by that success, we drove on into Villahermosa, found Wal-Mart for some necessary supplies and then found the Hebron House. We were greeted by the house caretaker Ezras and promptly fell into bed for a siesta.

After our nap, Glenn treated Ezras and me to a meal at the new Applebee’s restaurant in the centro of Villahermosa. It was very expensive (by Mexican standards) and not at all busy, (maybe that’s why) but the food was good. We returned to the house and watch a little NFL playoff action, then went to bed.

January 13, 2006

On Friday we traveled the winding road from Ocosingo toward Palenque for two Presbytery meetings where we were introduced to Presbyterian pastors and reconnected with the Synod leaders we met with on Monday. The church that hosted one of the Presbytery meetings also has a small clinic staffed by a “barefoot doctor.” These are local men that have basic health care training similar to a paramedic in the states. They are trained and supervised by a physician, but operate independently. They provide basic health care services, prevention and work evangelism into their conversation with their patients. They do not charge for their service, but sell medications at a small profit to support themselves. (Many medications are available without a prescription here, so selling medications without being a pharmacist is legal in Mexico.) They usually have another job that provides additional income for their families. We toured the clinic and met the supervising physician and two barefoot doctors.

One reason to build the medical clinic in Ocosingo is to provide an opportunity for training additional barefoot doctors to serve the remote villages in Chiapas. We would bring physicians and medical students from the US to the clinic to teach and learn from the barefoot doctors here.

Glenn was also able to experience the hospitality of village life as we were served two native meals (both only two hours apart and after a hearty breakfast in Ocosingo.) We had chicken stew at the first village breakfast and what we were told was beef at the second.

One thing about Chiapas cuisine is that the cuts of meet are unrecognizable to Americans. Maybe it is because they cut it with a machete, but one never knows exactly what part of the animal one is eating. The stew also contained yucca plant and native squash plus we had the ever present black beans and tortias. The meals were very good, but by our third breakfast we were running out of room to pack it away. I hope we did not offend the locals by not cleaning our plates.

We left the Presbytery meetings and drove to Agua Azul and Misholha, two beautiful waterfalls that are a must see for any tourist in Chiapas. Glenn and I then drove to Palenque where we found a room at the old favorite of Salem mission traveler the Mision Palenque Hotel. The cost was three times that of San Cristobal, but still reasonable by US standards. We were able to catch a bit of the UNC Miami basketball game on Saturday too, so it was worth the cost.

January 12, 2006

Glenn and I spent three days as tourists. We visited San Cristobal, a beautiful old city built in the 1500’s by Spanish settlers. The cobblestone streets are very narrow and mostly one way, but we had already learned the traffic patterns and recognized the signs painted on the buildings telling traffic to stop or which way to turn. We stayed at a nice hotel that guaranteed hot water 24 hours a day and had off-street parking for $250 pesos (about $25).

We visited the large old Catholic church in the center square of the city. Inside are ornate statues and carvings of the Virgin Mary, Jesus, and the Disciples. Parishioners pray to each figure, rubbing it and chanting. Many employ professional prayers to offer special prayers to the statues.

At the church alter we witnessed an unusual (for us) ceremony. A family was kneeling before the alter chanting in Tzeltal. They were holding a live chicken that was not happy about being in church. Before we knew what was happening, they lay the chicken on the ground and put a broom stick over its neck, then stood on the broom and attempted to break its neck. I say attempted because the chicken was not cooperating with this part of the ceremony. A man was holding its feet and attempting to stretch it while two people held down the broom stick. The chicken finally lost the battle and more chanting continued.

Pablo later told us that the family was trying to break a curse. Between our experience at the Catholic Churches in Tila and San Cristobal, I am beginning to understand the reason the Presbyterian Church here tries to separate itself from the Catholic Church. There are no crosses in Presbyterian Churches here; the services do not include the Lords Prayer or any of the familiar creeds. The Presbyterian parishioners neither smoke nor drink alcohol. I believe it is their way of differentiating themselves from the Catholic Church.

Later in San Cristobal we heard a marimba band playing in a building near the Catholic nunnery. We stepped inside the open door and watched as a 7 piece band practiced. They were 4 marimba players, a trumpeter, an electric bass player and drummer. Glenn asked if he could join in. He was a music major at Wake Forest a hundred years ago and plays and directs hand bell choirs at his church in Asheville. The band agreed and he did his best to keep up, mostly having a great time.

We visited several cool museums where we can bring Holly and Maggie for some home school/cultural experiences. I can tell San Cristobal will be a nice family get away location when we need a break or to just need a change of pace.

January 10, 2006

Tuesday morning we went to the bible school and after a quick tour met with Bonnie to discuss the re-designed plans for the clinic. She was receptive to the suggestions and helped us clarify structural details. She will need to investigate the regulations on the size of exam rooms, because the new plan has on one wall instead of three.

We then met with the leaders of the Mayan Synod of the Presbyterian Church. I brought them greetings from Salem Presbytery and the board of Hebron USA and expressed my pleasure being there. I asked for their prayers that the work we do may glorify God and that my family be safe in my absence. They talked about the need for the clinic and we asked for them to collect specific stories about how the current health care system has failed the indigenous people so we can relay those to our funding partners.

The pastors then talked for over an hour about a Presbyterian community they want to build close to town so that families can have access to good schools while still staying involved with the church. They voted to purchase a large tract of land and sub-divide it into lots where folks can build.

After lunch we had an amazing meeting with Daniel Cuate, the regional director of Emergency services for the County of Ocosingo. He is in charge of emergency services for a 50,000 square mile area in Chiapas, all with four vehicles. He wanted help in locating an ambulance with advanced life support systems and a small pumper fire truck. He has the approval to purchase the vehicles, but did not know where to begin to locate them. Glenn agreed to explore that upon his return to Asheville, all the while dreaming of driving the truck down from the border with the lights and siren on.

Seeing an opportunity to expand our relationships, we asked if he could help us guarantee that US shipments of medical supplies, pharmaceuticals and equipment for the clinic would arrive intact in Ocosingo. The synod attorney was also in attendance and they both agreed to work with the county to get a legal agreement that would allow Hebron Foundation to receive shipments in the name of the county. They said the county meeting was next week and they would make a proposal that would appear in the official minutes of the county meeting. If this is approved, we will try a test shipment in February or March to see how it works. It is exciting to have an opportunity to solve one of the biggest hurdles we face with equipping the clinic in our first day!

God has blessed us with safe travel, beautiful weather, receptive and gracious people and we have just begun to answer our call to serve.

January 9, 2006

Monday morning we arose and were on the road to Ocosingo by 7:30 am. Pablo wanted to show Glenn the back roads, so we left the main highway 30 miles past the airport and turned towards the mountains. The first 4 miles the road was in very bad condition, but then we crossed into Chiapas (no border check required) and the roads improved, but that is relative. They are still narrow, curvy, pockmarked and contain the Mexican speed-bump called topes. While we had encountered some topes on the trip from the border, once into Chiapas they became more frequent and less well marked. Thank goodness for the high clearance of the land cruiser.

We drove for 3 hours to the community of Tila which has a beautiful Catholic church atop a hill. It is famous for a miracle stream with healing powers. The Catholic people come each May to pay homage to the crucifix in the church and crawl up the steep (and I mean really steep) street that leads to the church. Pablo had never been to the church because each time he travels through the area he is with local Presbyterian pastors who are not as open minded as we are and disapprove of the Catholic Church. We were happy to oblige him as it was a wonderful chance to see an example of an old Mexican Catholic church.

We stood in line in the church behind the faithful and those that had paid a professional prayer to intercede on their behalf. The beautiful crucifix is enclosed in a glass cabinet atop a massive marble alter. Glenn suggested that the group in July the he is organizing come by Tila on the way to Ocosingo to see this beautiful church.

We arrived in Ocosingo at 2 pm. We were welcomed by Pablo’s daughter Amalia, her daughter Priscilla, Pablo’s niece Flo and the Foundation secretary Viviana. We unloaded the truck and I began to arrange my living quarters in Pablo and Jan’s house. We will eventually move into a house on the grounds of the Alpha Omega Bible School, but it needs some renovation.

After supper and a nap, we sat down with Pablo to review the clinic plans and make recommended changes. We had spent several hours on the drive down talking about the clinic and what services would be practical to provide short and long-term. The existing plans that Bonnie (the architect) drew were more like a hospital than a clinic. The practical reality is the facility will not be able to provide 24 hour care in the near term, so we looked at changing the layout to more resemble a day clinic with outpatient medical, dental and minor surgery capabilities. Glenn has designed several clinics and consulted with more on patient flow and staffing, so his input was very valuable.

January 8, 2006

We arose Sunday morning to a beautiful morning in the seaside city of Tuxpan. Glenn and I walked along the main road by the bay and enjoyed the sunshine and view. We loaded up the truck and continued south driving along the seashore past miles of undeveloped property. We stopped for breakfast at a seaside motel/restaurant and for 206 pesos (about 20 USD) we all had shrimp tacos, eggs with ham and cheese, sweet rolls and coffee. Glenn commented that I would be need to work hard to lose weight if I continue eating this way. Pablo reminding him that this was “travel food,” not the normal village fare.

We drove nonstop except for refueling, through Veracruz where we finally were able to get onto good 4 lane roads and go fast. Although the road would unexpectedly become very bumpy, most of the rest of the way to Villahermosa, the road was good. We arrived into the familiar city at 5:30 pm and went to the Hebron Foundation House where groups stay when arriving for trips or if working in Villhermosa. We were met by our old friend Ezras. (I say old friend although he is only 20 years old. He looked after the foundation house for many years and has welcomed every group that arrives.) We unloaded the items that would remain in Villahermosa, then went to VIP’s for supper. Glenn was surprised by the size and sophistication of this capital city and we saw many new US brands like Applebee’s and Holiday Inn Express.

We went to bed early that night. It is amazing how tired one gets from traveling.

January 7, 2006

We left early Saturday for Brownsville and the Mexican border, passing miles of open fields ready for planting and little else. We arrived at Brownsville at 9:30, filled up with gas and went to the border. We had no difficulty with the immigration process or getting the car permit. We were back in the car after a 20 minute process. We approached the exit where a stoplight with a red and green light awaited. Just as in the airports in Mexico, customs officials do not check every person that arrives. If you get a red light, you must unpack for inspection. While we had nothing that customs would be concerned with, the process would have taken valuable time and it would have been a bother. Prayers were answered because we got a green light at the exit. Pablo cautioned us to drive slowly so we did not attract attention. We made it through the border and went straight to the mall! Pablo wanted a detailed map of Mexico and I needed to find an ATM to get pesos for the trip.

Glenn was curious why Pablo needed a map to get home, but that became evident as we made our way down the coastline on Hwy 180. We traveled on all grades of roads during that first day, trading off driving responsibilities and listening to the Satellite radio that Ginny got me for Christmas.

I have to mention that the only time Pablo drove was through a stretch that included the city of Tampico. We were on a busy two-lane city street behind a line of double-trailer trucks which require aggressive driving to get around. Pablo passed one truck and slipped behind another before the oncoming bus made a permanent dent in my hood. Unfortunately, the driver behind us also made the maneuver, but was unable to stop before he hit the rear carrier I have attached to the trailer hitch. We all got out to inspect the damage, which was minimal for us, but more than minor for the guy that hit us. He seemed ok with us driving on. So I purchase Mexican auto insurance, but thankfully didn’t have to file a claim, but gratefully did not end up in jail after our first incident.

The last three hours of the day were spend on a narrow, deteriorated two lane mountain road behind trucks and buses. We gratefully arrived in Tuxpan at 9 pm and got a room in the Riviera Hotel for $490 pesos. We found a nearby restaurant for a late supper which was very good, then off to bed. God had blessed us with traveling mercies for another day.

January 6, 2006

We met Pablo and Josh at IAH. Their plane was delayed because the landing light at the VSA airport were not working the night before so the plane from Veracruz could not land. That was the plane they were to take to IAH.

We got everyone loaded up and went to get some lunch before our meeting with MBF. Over lunch we reviewed the clinic plans and the new budget. Glenn suggested some changes to the plans and we will work on those when we get to Ocosingo.

The meeting with Medical Benevolence Foundation went ok. Dr. George Pope was supportive of the idea of the clinic and pledged to make some contacts with large churches they have a relationship with in hopes of getting work teams and funding for the clinic. We need to clarify the role of Hebron Foundation Mex, the Mexican Presbyterian Church, and Hebron USA in the proposal. Also need to highlight the opportunity to train barefoot doc at the clinic.

We left Houston at 4:30 and drove to Kingsville Tx where the Presbyterian Pan American school is located. We went to Pizza Hut for my last good pizza and to Wal-Mart for some last minute supplies. We then went to stay with a young couple that has become a second family to Josh, Louis and Nora Hernandez. They live in a small apt. in Kingsville with their two daughters. Louis is a JR at Texas A&M studying computer science. They gave us two of their three bedrooms and prepared breakfast for us the next day. They were very generous with their meager resources. Once again the hospitality of the Mexican people has touched me.

1/5/06 Heading out from Winston-Salem

Houston, TX
Glenn and I left Asheville at 7:15 yesterday and drove over 1100 miles. We arrived in Houston at 11:15 pm CST so we were traveling for 17 hours. The trip was uneventful until we started looking for a hotel room. Most rooms are taken by hurricane evacuees, so every place we checked was full. Thanks to technology, we were able to call via cell phone Ginny in “Mission Control” back in Winston was able to go online and check the availability of hotels and make a reservation for us in east Houston.