January 12, 2006

Glenn and I spent three days as tourists. We visited San Cristobal, a beautiful old city built in the 1500’s by Spanish settlers. The cobblestone streets are very narrow and mostly one way, but we had already learned the traffic patterns and recognized the signs painted on the buildings telling traffic to stop or which way to turn. We stayed at a nice hotel that guaranteed hot water 24 hours a day and had off-street parking for $250 pesos (about $25).

We visited the large old Catholic church in the center square of the city. Inside are ornate statues and carvings of the Virgin Mary, Jesus, and the Disciples. Parishioners pray to each figure, rubbing it and chanting. Many employ professional prayers to offer special prayers to the statues.

At the church alter we witnessed an unusual (for us) ceremony. A family was kneeling before the alter chanting in Tzeltal. They were holding a live chicken that was not happy about being in church. Before we knew what was happening, they lay the chicken on the ground and put a broom stick over its neck, then stood on the broom and attempted to break its neck. I say attempted because the chicken was not cooperating with this part of the ceremony. A man was holding its feet and attempting to stretch it while two people held down the broom stick. The chicken finally lost the battle and more chanting continued.

Pablo later told us that the family was trying to break a curse. Between our experience at the Catholic Churches in Tila and San Cristobal, I am beginning to understand the reason the Presbyterian Church here tries to separate itself from the Catholic Church. There are no crosses in Presbyterian Churches here; the services do not include the Lords Prayer or any of the familiar creeds. The Presbyterian parishioners neither smoke nor drink alcohol. I believe it is their way of differentiating themselves from the Catholic Church.

Later in San Cristobal we heard a marimba band playing in a building near the Catholic nunnery. We stepped inside the open door and watched as a 7 piece band practiced. They were 4 marimba players, a trumpeter, an electric bass player and drummer. Glenn asked if he could join in. He was a music major at Wake Forest a hundred years ago and plays and directs hand bell choirs at his church in Asheville. The band agreed and he did his best to keep up, mostly having a great time.

We visited several cool museums where we can bring Holly and Maggie for some home school/cultural experiences. I can tell San Cristobal will be a nice family get away location when we need a break or to just need a change of pace.